Wine & Spirit Notes: London’s Secret Speakeasies
I’ve been a little reluctant to write anything about the secret speakeasies that are popping up all over London as my view is that perhaps they’re best kept on the hush hush. However, TimeOut London wrote a piece online today outing the trend so I suppose it’s only a matter of time before people all over the capital are knocking on unmarked doors, hoping to find a palatial drinking den behind.
I was introduced to Purl a couple of weeks ago, where a theatrical and scientific approach to their cocktail making would be sure to please the Heston Blumenthals of the world. My ‘Mr Hyde’s No. 2’ cocktail was served infused with smoke in a medicine bottle and surrounded by billowing Lapsang Fog escaping from a cooler. Depending on how smoky I wished my Ron Zacapa 23-based cocktail to be, I could either pour the drink straight away into my tiny metal cup, or leave the cork in the bottle for a while longer. A friend of mine chose the ‘Green Fairy Sazerac’, which was topped with an Absinthe ‘Air’ the consistency of lightly whipped egg whites, and was made in a way which would preserve the alcoholic content of the Absinthe. Hic!
With wood floors, exposed brickwork and leather Chesterfield sofas casting shadows in the dim light, Purl is cosy without succumbing to the usual faux-luxe trappings of velvet and sparkly bits. Even though we were seated at the bar, curiosities were to be seen all around us from punch bowls to taxidermy, and I hear there’s a piano room if you venture further…
My second secret speakeasy, where cocktails were a birthday treat a few days ago, is the Experimental Cocktail Club. Hidden away in Chinatown, it occupies the two floors above one of the Chinese restaurants and has the interiors of townhouse turned boudoir, where waiters in red bow ties squeeze past merrymakers whose heels sink into the pile of the soft carpet underfoot. Even though it was only 7pm on a Thursday night, the Experimental Cocktail Club was packed with a mixture of people who were there for the cocktails and others who were having a post-work glass of Champagne. Not quite as niche as Purl but when it came to the cocktails, I couldn’t complain. I have a bit of a sweet tooth so my choices were rum and Calvados based. The rum cocktail, called ‘Jamaican Pogo’ definitely had a Caribbean punch vibe to it with the ingredients list containing spicy bitters and pineapple flavours. A friend’s ‘Old Cuban’ was an interesting twist on the classic Mojito, while the ‘Havana’ is recommended by the bar staff if you’re not afraid of a stiff drink.
While Purl and the Experimental Cocktail Club are quite different in terms of atmosphere and clientele, both offer cocktails that are actually worth paying £10 for and have an individual character which is so often lacking in many of London’s identikit bars. There are more Prohibition-inspired speakeasies popping up so catch them before the rest of London does.
(Photo taken with iPhone & instagram, unfortunately not at a speakeasy)




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